Idea flows

INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES

• SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STITCH MACHINE (SNLS) – this machine is used when a single line of ‘LOCK STITCH’ sewing is required. The regular sewing machines are often regarded as an end in itself rather than as a basic sewing tool. These machines can have different feed systems and be fixed with different types of attachments to customise for multiple functions. Features of SNLS are:

- Needle and Bobbin form stitches.

- Speed of upto 6000rpm, electronic controls reduce production time.

- Automatic positioning of needle in up or down position. 

- Manual back tack.

• SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STITCH w/EDGE CUTTER and UBTT – This machine is the same as the SNLS with added features.

- UNDER BE THREAD TRIMMER automatically clips top and bottom threads once sewing operation is complete.

- EDGE CUTTER blade is positioned along with the needle bar with spacing option of 1/8” to 3/8” for cutting and neatening of seam edge. A vent is provided in the machine bed for the trimmed fabric bits to be collected in a dust bag underneath the machine bed.

 

• SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STITCH MACHINE w/UBTT and COMPUTER PANEL – this machine is same as SNLS with added features.

- UNDER BE THREAD TRIMMER automatically clips top and bottom threads once sewing operation is complete.

- PEDAL PRESS BACK TACK mechanism can be activated using foot pedal or automatically by means of an electronic seam-end sensor (e-prom). The back tack can be set for length of 1-15stitches.

- COMPUTER PANEL – sewing sequence can be programmed by selecting or setting parameters on the micro-processor computer panel for repetitive operations.

 

• DOUBLE NEEDDLE LOCK STITCH (DNLS) – this machine is used for sewing of 2 parallel lines of ‘LOCK STITCH’. Stitch formation occurs with 2 needles and 2 bobbin threads. DNLS are of 2 types, Normal Bar and Split Bar.

- Normal Bar – 2 needles are fixed to a single needle bar, hence sewing occurs in parallel at the same time. Both stitch lines have the same start and end points. Spacing between needles is usually ¼”. Useful in top stitching of hems or top stitching of flat felled side seams when a folder is attached.

- Split Bar – the needle bar is split to hold 2 needles. The needles can run parallel or at varied positions but still in parallel lines. Both stitch lines may or may not have the same start and end points. Spacing between needles is usually ¼”. Useful in patch pocket application or collar top stitching.

• SINGLE NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH – this machine is used when one single line of ‘CHAIN STITCH’ sewing is required. Single Needle Chain Stitch machine can be either 2 threads type (1needle thread and 1 looper thread) or 3 threads type (1 needle thread and 2 looper threads). The 3 thread chain stitch is more secure than the 2 thread chain stitch. In comparison with the lock stich, the advantage of chain stitch is it stretches a bit when stretched, so stitch does not break easily.

• DOUBLE NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH – this machine is used when 2 parallel lines of chain stitch sewing is required. 2 needle threads and 2 looper threads are used to sew with this machine. Used in placket top stitching or shoulder seam top stitching in knits.

• OVERLOCKING MACHINE - this is a generic name given to over-edge stitch machines used to trim and cover raw edges of fabric in order to achieve clean and neat seam appearance.  Overlock machines sewing is done woven as well as knitted fabrics.

- EDGE CUTTER blade is along with the needle bar for cutting and neatening of seam edge.

- Over-edge stitch can be formed with 3 to 6 threads. 

- Width of over-edge stitch can be from 1/8” to 3/8”.

- Speed of sewing can go upto 8500rpm.

- Vacuum system for extracting cloth wastages.

- Variable feeds for sewing problem materials; to create continuous or intermittent fullness on the top or bottom plies of fabric.

 

• BLIND STITCHIN MACHINE – these machines are used for fastening hems or facings. As the name suggests, the stitch impression or the stitch itself is not visible on the right side of garment. A curved needle penetrates and picks up a tiny point of inner layer of fabric and thread passes through. An optional skip stitch device may be fitted to the blind hem stitch machine. The skip stitch device causes the outer layer of the fabric tobe picked up every 2 or 3 stitches along with the sewing at the inner layer of fabric. The skip stitch device is used commonly while blind stitching sheer or fine fabrics.

- Speed of upto 2000 stitches/minute.

- Automatic thread clipping.

- Automatic needle positioning.

- Pneumatic opening and closing of the work plate.

- One thread or 2 thread versions. Stitch is locked in 2 thread version.

• BUTTONHOLE  MACHINE – A buttonhole is a straight or shaped slit cut through the garment and with the sewing on the raw edges of the slit. The edge is completely covered with zigzag chain stitches or zigzag lock stitches.

Manual Buttonhole Machine – Buttonholing is made with zigzag chain stitches in this case. It is called Manual machine as the after the button hole is sewn, the end threads have to be locked by hand sewing to protect from stitch unravelling. 

- The length and shape of cut for buttonholing is dependent upon button size, fabric type.

- The width of stitches and SPI is dependent upon button hole size and fabric type.

- Automatic thread trimming device on machine.

Computerised Buttonhole Machine – Buttonholing is made with zigzag lock stitch. All operational features are same as that of manual machine. But the settings are to be set on the control panel, instead of manually setting or pre-programmed settings may be chosen.  The buttonhole stitching is secured by the machine at the end of sewing of buttonholes.

 

• BARTACKING MACHINE – the bar tack machine has many applications in the apparel industry; one of them is the sewing of dense tack across the open of a buttonhole. The machine sews a number of stitches across the end of the buttonhole and then over sews them at right angles with a series of covering stitches. Each machine sews a fixed number of stitches with the option to change stitch density (width and SPI) and machines are available which sew bar tacks with 18 to 42 stitches.

- Is a zigzag lock stitch machine.

- Has a mechanism which signals audibly and visually when bobbing thread is below a certain level.

- Automatic thread cutting at the end of sewing cycle.

- A 2-stage pedal which opens and closes the work clamp and also operates the machine.

- A brake wheel base which enables the machine to be easily moved.

- In some specialised versions, can be used for sewing small decorative tacks and shapes.

 

• BUTTON SEWING MACHINE – Usually a zigzag lock stitch machine. Sometimes a zigzag chain stitch machine. Lock stitch fixing is secure, chain stitch fixing needs tobe secured manually.  Buttons with 2, 3, 4 holes or shanks can all be sewn on the same machine by making a few adjustments to the button clamp and spacing mechanism. Sewing action consists of a series of parallel stitches that are equal in length to the spacing between the holes on buttons. Needle has vertical up-down movement, button clamp moves sideways to left-right. Buttons can be cross stitches, horizontal parallel stitched, vertical parallel stitched and in the shape of a triangle.

• FLAT LOCK MACHINE – this machine is used to sew over overlapping components. 3 to 6 threads machines are available depending upon stitch widths. Stitch widths can vary from ¼” to 3/8”.

• KEY HOLE MACHINE – the stitching and appearance of the Key-Hole is the same as Buttonhole. The difference is the shape. The space created for passage of the button is in the shape of a Key-Hole. The key hole is used in case of Shank buttons, Hand sew buttons and Large buttons or Thick buttons.

• FEED OF THE ARM MACHINE – this machine is used to form tubular components after sewing. Side seams of shirts, inseams of trousers/pants are common areas of Feed-of-the-Arm sewing.

- Different types of folders are used based on type of seam.

- Is a multi-thread chain stitch machine.

- 2 needle (4thread) or 3 needle (6thread) versions are available.

- Spacing between stitch lines is 1/8”

• SPECIAL MACHINE (UNION OR KANSAI) – this is a 4needle chain stitch machine combined with a puller feed mechanism. Used for elastication of the waist band or for waist band attaching or for 4 needle parallel sewing. 4needle parallel sewing is seen in shirt placket.

• SMOCKIN MACHINE – this machine is used for shirring/smocking. It has a blind looper with 1thread stitching similar to chain stitch. Speciality of this machine is shirring can be carried out in consecutive rows.

• ZIGZAG MACHINE – this is a SNLS machine where the needle moves in criss-cross direction. The stitch width and SPI can be adjusted as required. Usually this stitch is made on folded edges of sheer fabric. A folder is used for uniform width of fold.

• EMBROIDERY MACHINES – SNLS machines with zigzag stitching. The fabric also moves in 4 directions (forward, backwards, left and right). Hence embroider designs can be made either manually or computerised.